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You’ve got the right bottle and the time is
ripe for its uncorking. Some wines are best
undecanted (in Burgundy, the locals rarely decant any
of their wines; a mistake, in my view), but the
majority benefit from time exposed to air. To be
honest, any old, clean receptacle will do. I have
drunk 1966 Haut-Brion that has been successfully
allowed to breathe in a cafetière; very
delicious it was too. But if the thing is to be on
the dining table, better that it have some aesthetic
value.
Don’t stop at red wines either. Dry whites,
especially those with some bottle age, will often
improve with some breathing. Sauternes looks fabulous
in a decanter with candlelight behind. And how often
have you consumed an old bottle of champagne only to
find that the last glass is by far the best. Careful
decanting is the answer.
There’s another use for decanters, too. Rather
than keeping a cupboard full of bottles of
cognac/armagnac/whisky/gin etc. why not display them
in the open? Nut-brown, cask-aged spirits always look
the part on a table in the living room.
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